Several months ago, when my wife and I visited the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore, we enjoyed a polar bear exhibit. After marveling at the bears, we read zoo information about the Churchill, Manitoba: Polar Bear Capital of the World. We learned that Churchill, located in the far north of the Canadian province of Manitoba, is one of the few destinations that cannot be reached by automobile. The only ways to get to Churchill are by passenger train or air. For that reason, Churchill is our featured destination in this month’s Car Free Journey. The best times to visit are summer and fall.

Welcome to Churchill

Churchill is a town on the west shore of Hudson Bay in Manitoba, Canada. It is most famous for the many polar bears that move toward the shore from inland in the autumn, leading to the nickname "Polar Bear Capital of the World”. In 1717 the Hudson’s Bay Company built the first permanent settlement, Churchill River Post, a log fort a few miles upstream from the mouth of the Churchill River. The trading post and river were named after John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough (an ancestor of Winston Churchill) who was governor of the Hudson's Bay Company in the late 17th century.

Like all northern communities in Canada, Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) can sometimes be seen when there is a high amount of solar activity. Visibility also depends on the sky being dark enough to see them, which usually precludes their visibility in the summer due to twilight all night long.

Churchill has a borderline subarctic climate, due to its location above the tree line with long very cold winters, and short, cool to mild summers. Churchill's winters are colder than a location at latitude of 58 degrees north should warrant, given its coastal location. The shallow Hudson Bay freezes, eliminating any maritime moderation. Yet in summer, when the Hudson Bay thaws, Churchill's summer is moderated. Churchill's 12.7 °C (54.9 °F) July average temperature is almost the same as Juneau's 13.8 °C (56.8 °F) July average.

Polar Bears

Polar Bears on the Ice

Beluga Whale

Snowy Owl

Polar bears

October and early November are the most feasible times to see polar bears, thousands of which wait on the vast peninsula until the water freezes on Hudson Bay so that they can return to hunt their primary food source: ringed seals... Tourists can safely view polar bears from a customized passenger vehicle. During other months, boat tours will take visitors to coastal areas where polar bears can be found both on land and swimming in the sea.

Many residents leave their cars unlocked in case someone needs to make a quick escape from polar bears in the area. Local authorities maintain a so-called "polar bear jail" where bears (mostly adolescents) who persistently loiter in or close to town, are held after being tranquilized, pending release back into the wild when the bay freezes over. It is the subject of a poem, Churchill Bear Jail, by Salish Chief Victor A. Charlo.

Beluga whales

Thousands of beluga whales which move into the warmer waters of the Churchill River estuary during July and August to calf are a major summer attraction.

Birds

Churchill is a destination for bird watchers from late May until August. Birders have recorded more than 270 species within a 25 mi (40 km) radius of Churchill, including snowy owl, tundra swan, American golden plover and gyrfalcon. More than 100 birds, including parasitic jaeger, Smith’s longspur, stilt sandpiper, and Harris’ sparrow, nest there.

Get Oriented at the Parks Canada Visitor Center

The Parks Canada visitor center (located in the VIA train station) has artifacts on display and makes use of audiovisual presentations of various topics involving the region's natural and archaeological history. There, visitors can learn more about Wapusk NP, York Factory NHS and Prince of Wales Fort NHS, and take a tour, sit in on presentations and participate in other Parks Canada programs.

The Churchill Chamber of Commerce has a very helpful Visitors Guide. To receive a copy by e-mail, contact the Chamber at churchillchamber@mts.net. In the subject, say Request Visitors Guide. (Also tell the Chamber that you read this in Car Free Journey.).

If you want a unique experience, consider one of Churchill Wild’s 8-9 day all inclusive packages from Winnipeg. You are flown to one of several unique lodges near Churchill and then participate in one of several polar-bear focused tours. See under What To Do, later in this column for a list of these tours.

Getting Here

By Air: Calm Air International (http://www.calmair.com/schedules.html or call toll-free 800-839-2256 for fares and schedules) flies daily to Churchill from Winnipeg. There are also flights from Thompson, Manitoba, Monday-Friday.

By Train: Via Rail (www.viarail.ca or call toll-free from Canada or the United States 1-888-VIA-Rail –or 888-842-7245). Trains leave Winnipeg on Tuesday and Sunday and take approximately 48 hours to reach Churchill. The return trains leave Churchill on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

(Editor’s Note: Because of track maintenance and repair, there currently is no train service to Churchill. Service is expected to resume in early July. For current information about when train service will resume, call the Churchill Chamber at (204) 675-2022, or contact VIA.)

The train to Churchill makes a five-hour layover stop at Thompson, Manitoba. We will spotlight Thompson in our September 2014 Car Free Journey column.

How to Get Around After You Arrive

From the airport, it costs $25 to take a taxi downtown. Call Churchill Taxi: 204-675-2345.

From the VIA Rail station, it is a 5-15 minute walk to downtown Churchill. Downtown is where accommodations, restaurants, and other services are located.

Where to Stay

There are so many places to stay that it is difficult to list all of them here. Read Parts 3 and 4 of the Churchill Chamber of Commerce’s Visitor Guide. You can also go to the Members page on the Chamber’s website: http://www.churchillchamberofcommerce.ca/Members.html

Getting Around

You can walk to nearly any place you want in downtown Churchill. (There is no public transit, except Churchill Taxi: 204-675-2345.)

What to Do

In Town

The Eskimo Museum

The "Eskimo Museum houses a permanent display of more than 850 high quality Inuit carvings. These include historic and contemporary sculptures of stone, bone, and ivory, as well as archaeological and wildlife specimens.

Polar Bear Stamp

If you bring your passport to the Churchill post office, they will stamp it with a stamp that says: Churchill, Manitoba: Polar Bear Capital of the World (with a polar bear picture). Alas, this has no official status—but it’s an unforgettable souvenir.

The town of Churchill has gift and souvenir shops, plus a few restaurants. Gypsy’s Bakery (http://www.gypsybakery.ca/ or call 204-675-2322) is open Monday-Saturday from 6:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m. On its website, it claims to be the No. 1 restaurant in Churchill.

Tours and Special Experiences (these are just a few of the many available)

Sea North Tours (www.seanorthtours.com or call 204-675-2195) Sea North is well known for its beluga whale watching tours. Trip Advisor readers give it high marks for its knowledgeable guides, and also for the snorkeling with the whales opportunities. Sea North partners with Parks Canada in taking people to Prince of Wales Fort for Sloop Cove hikes, and various talks, hikes and special events. This fort, build by the Hudson’s Bay Company between 1731 and 1771, is a large stone, Vauban-style fortification.
Polar Bear Tours—These are available from the following Tour Operators (see the Members page of the Churchill Chamber of Commerce website for website, e-mail and phone contact information for each tour operator): Great White Bear Tours, Frontiers North, Tundra Buggy Tours, Churchill Nature Tours, Sear river Heritage Lodge, Webber’s Lodge, Dymond Lake Outfitters, Lazy Bear Lodge, and Churchill Wild (see below for more information about Churchill Wild’s tours which must be booked in advance and begin in Winnipeg).
Hudson Bay Helicopters (www.hudsonbayheli.com or 204-675-2576). Hudson Bay Helicopters will fly you to Wapusk National Park for a helicopter tour of the park. They will also fly you to York Factory: a Hudson’s Bay Company trading, shipping and administrative center from 1684-1957. While the cost of these tours is expensive, a group of three-six people could team up to split the cost.
Churchill Wild (www.churchillwild.com or call toll-free 866-687-2327).
These all-inclusive polar-bear-oriented tours last 8-9 days, and must be booked in advance. They begin and end in Winnipeg. Tours include: Birds, bears and belugas, Mothers and cubs, Arctic Safari, Great Ice Bear Adventure, and (for professional photographers) the Polar Bear Photo Safari. For details about when each tour is given, and for reservations, visit the web site or call the toll-free number.
Lazy Boy Lodge (www.lazybearlodge.com, or call toll-free 866-687-2327 or the local number: 204-675-2195). Lazy Boy Lodge is the largest log cabin in Manitoba, with a restaurant that is open to the public. While rooms and tours can be purchased separately, Lazy Boy Lodge encourages visitors to purchase packages that include room, meals, and guided tours. The lodge offers two extensive tours: a six-hour polar bear boat tour, and a three-hour boat tour that includes viewing beluga whales and a visit to Prince of Wales Fort.

Entertainment: The Tundra Inn (www.tundrainn.com, or call toll-free 800-265-8563) and the Seaport Hotel (www.seaporthotel.com or call toll-free 877-558-4555 or the local number: 204-675-8807) both bring in bands and other entertainment during polar bear season (October-November). If you are a guest at the Seaport Hotel, the hotel will arrange to pick you up at the airport.

Tips for Visitors from Travel Manitoba:

This is a sub-Arctic location, so dress accordingly. Wear wind-proof and rain-proof gear in the summer. In the fall, wear appropriate parka and ski boots, winter boots, and other cold-weather gear.
Churchill is a small town with about 900 people. It is a remote, authentic, Arctic experience, not very touristy, and is off the beaten track.
Try to come with an open mind and sense of adventure. These are unforgettable wildlife experiences that visitors will treasure for a lifetime.

For More Information

Contact the Churchill Chamber of Commerce:

http://www.churchillchamberofcommerce.ca/Welcome.html

Or call toll-free 888-389-2327 or the local number: 204-675-2022

The Churchill Chamber of Commerce has a very helpful Visitors Guide. To receive a copy by e-mail, contact the Chamber at churchillchamber@mts.net. In the subject, say Request Visitors Guide. (Also tell the Chamber that you read this in Car Free Journey.).
www.everythingchurchill.com, the Churchill page of Travel Manitoba.
Call Travel Manitoba at 800-665-0040.
Visit www.travelmanitoba.com for information about travel and vacation ideas throughout the province of Manitoba.

Do you have a favorite getaway or vacation destination you would like spotlighted in a future Car Free Journey column? E-mail Steve at steveatlas45 @yahoo.com. Steve also loves to hear comments and suggestions from readers about recent Car Free Journey columns.

You can view past Car Free Journey columns at www.pubtrantravel.com/carfreejourneys.html.

New At Pubtrantravel

New Services

Are Gas Prices Too High?

Popular Places

Popular Destinations You Can Visit Without a Car

Steve Atlas

Pubtrantravel welcomes Steve, founder of carfreeamerica.org as its newest contributing writer

Car Free at the Beach

20 Beaches You Can Enjoy Without a Car - By Steve Atlas

Car Free Journeys

Vacation Destinations You Can Enjoy Without a Car - By Steve Atlas